22 - 24 April Essaouira

Back where we started from, if you don't count the first few days orientation in Marrakesh. After the events of last night and earlier this morning we were on the road by 07.30. We took the coast road out of Safi and then picked up the N1 through to and beyond Essaouira. We drove on to take a look at Sidi Kaouki. We loved the look of it and were sorry that we had not discovered it earlier in the trip. It was everything we had hoped that Oualidia would be and definitely was not. It's exactly the sort of place we always seek out when we are camping. However we had to make a rational decision about where we would spend the last couple of nights of the trip and agreed we needed somewhere with a few more amenities. We have a 'to do' list, including getting the car sorted, we have just thrown everything in the back and the boot for four weeks. John would also like to get it washed and valeted before we hand it back. It's done a lot of things you shouldn't do in a 2WD hire car.
So we are back in Essaouira and the Mirimar Hotel. It was rather nice, the young woman on reception recognis d John from the last time we were here. As returning customer,ears we have a nice sea view room with a balcony at the same price we paid for a back facing room last time. It feels a lot different in Essaouira, a month on. It is warm and sunny. I am sitting on the balcony in just a light shift, having just had a shower at 18.15. I couldn't have sat outside a month ago, I would be wearing both my thermal vests by now. It's a very nice room too,larger than the other one and the bathroom has a proper bath and a bidet. The bidet is a real treat, I have missed not having the 'arab' toilet, I must check out which countries/cultures have them. Is it an
Arab thing or a Muslim thing? It's not just the weather that is different in Essaouira a month later. Many more places seem to be open, bit there aren't a lot more tourists.
The trip here was interesting as Argan trees slowly replaced the Olives. There was also a lot of agriculture and some very expensive farming machinery, several combiners and lots of (John Deere) tractors. Unlike yesterday when in our cross country trip from Ouzoud we saw people plowing and harrowing with donkeys. Essaouira is a nice place, by far the best of the resort type seaside places we have been to. After settling in at the hotel we walked down to the port area and ate a big plate of mixed fish, lobster, prawns, squid, sardines and red mullet. With a salad, chips, bread, a Coke and a Fanta the bill came to about £30 which we didn't think was two bad at all.
We will be having an early night tonight and then a final relaxing day here tomorrow, with maybe more fish.

I had a very good nights sleep. Our room, overlooking the busy beach road, has quadruple glazing, that is two sets of double glazed sliding doors leading onto the patio. I didn't hear a thing.
After breakfast John took the car to be washed and cleaned and I went for a walk on the beach. There were miles of hard sand. I walked to the far southern corner of the bay, where John and I had walked almost a month ago. Today it was warm and sunny. I didn't realise how much the wind had got up until I felt the sand whipping the backs of my legs, and decided to turn back. Activity on the beach had increased, people were taking rides on horses and camels, would be wind surfers were being kitted out. I stood and watched as a novice struggled to control both his board and his kite simultaneously. A much more experienced exponent skimmed across the waves, performing leaps and twists with acrobatic precision. These are different to the wind surfers we used to see off Karystos. Instead of a surf board with a sail attached they have a sail board and a kite. Two young men raced sprightly horses through the surf. Some dogs came and sniffed around, to see if anything was on offer, a bitch with dangling teats and a young pup. Is it the only survived this time round? I had nothing and they soon left me for a more promising option.
I was suddenly aware that the rhinitis and itchy eyes I have had almost permanently for the last week had gone. It's the olive blossom, exactly the same thing I used to have for a month each year in Greece. When it happened here I knew exactly what it was, I had just got so used to it again I didn't notice it until it was gone.
Back at the hotel John had returned from! the car wash and we walked the short distance into the Medina, strolled the back streets, enjoying the ambience and the warmth, noticing how much difference a month had made. We bought some fried fish and shrimps from a street stall, a good sized bag for less than £2. We sat in the square and drank some freshly squeezed orange juice.
Back at the hotel we are sitting on our balcony, sheltered from the wind, drinking a beer. It's countdown time. Tomorrow we go to Marrakesh, back to Riad El Az, for our last night in Morocco. Maybe I won't write anymore. I can't decide whether or not to get my arms hennaed before I go back. I think Bella and Freya will be so impressed. It's been a great trip, I'm so glad we came. I'm also pleased we are back here at Essaouira although I think if we just took a holiday Sidi Kaouki would be the place for me.
I've missed the kids, but probably no more after four weeks than I did after two. Now it's time to go home though, I'm ready to go. Without a forward plan, where next, what next, I am thinking about my allotment, how are my potatoes, do they need earthing up. What about my garden, is the rambling rose in flower, have the fruit trees set. Karen put it so well in her blog about travelling and going home, I need to re-read it.