21 April Safi

22.00  Once again we have encountered a Moroccan wedding. This time at the actual hotel where we are staying. We didn't know when we checked in. We are sitting at the entrance of a large hotel in Safi which is booked out for a wedding tonight. I have never seen such finery. Two men with drums are at the entrance to the large room where the reception will take place and every time any guests arrive they beat out a tattoo. Earlier we saw a large sofa covered with gold brocade, similar to the ones which we saw being made in Fez, carried in, with countless other paraphernalia. Interestingly all the male guests seem to be in western suits. The women are in glittering, dazzling kaftans and djellabahs, headress and babouche to match, with tight belts, again similar to those which we saw in Fez. I think they are metal and must be so uncomfortable.
It's been quite a day. I think I have really gone off Google maps. John looked up the recommended route from Ouzoud to Oualidia and it took us cross country on a road which when it existed was full of potholes. Most of the time John had to resort to driving off road on the dirt verges. I think it's a case for using your common sense, our road map showed a perfectly good 'red' road which OK was a bit of a longer route but I am sure would have been a much more comfortable journey as we lumped and banged our way through. If there is a positive side to this it is the fact that we probably took a route no tourists have ever taken before.
It was all agricultural land, flat and featureless, with some signs of irrigation. At first we retraced our footsteps and had another chance to look at the area between El-Kelaa-des-Srafhna and Ben Guerir where at attempt is being made to establish olives, and the Phosphate Quarries. It was after there that the road deteriorated dramatically, as we passed old kasbahs and ksours, often protected by high hedges of prickly pear.
Oualidia was a great disappointment. We expected a small fishing village, instead we found a large package holiday type resort. We drove in, round and out the other side, and on down the coast. So here we are in Safi in the first hotel we came across, listening to a Moroccan wedding. There won't be much sleeping done tonight, by us or anyone else. Rooms all around us are booked by wedding guests, and obviously over-booked. I saw at least six people go into a room a couple of doors away, carrying pillows and blankets. We've given up on the voyeurism bit and come back to our room for a bottle of wine. To our knowledge some people have been sitting round tables in the main hall for at least two hours waiting for the festivities to get underway. An interesting thought has occurred to me, based on Greek experiences. We were so obvious sitting in the hotel foyer, watching events and we were totally ignored. I have no wish to be a late uninvited guest at a Moroccan wedding, but had we have been in Greece we would have been invited in long ago. We have so many examples based on our own personal experiences and those of others which we have spectated. Two strangers, and particularly foreigners, observed on the sidelines, would have been welcomed in and great efforts made to find someone who shared a language with them.
The hotel last night was lovely, one of the nicest places we have stayed in, so very quiet and peaceful. We have two days left and are still not sure how to spend them. We have decided not to book anything and will just head off down the coast tomorrow, after a stop at a Marjane to renew the alcohol stocks.

22 April 06.00
Strictly speaking I should start another page. The ear deafening tuneless music has just stopped. The rooms at this hotel open onto a central courtyard with a swimming pool and all the wedding guests overflowed from the reception room out into it. We have dozed a bit in the last seven hours, and just as they are packing up it is time for us to get up. Let's hope today is a better day than yesterday and tonight a better night than last night as our trip draws to a close.