12 April Riad Dar Mystere, Fez

We spent last night in one of the most bizarre places we have ever stayed. We had a good trip from Erg Chebbi through some picturesque landscapes. It is an incredible country as far as scenery is concerned, within three hours of travel we had left the desert and had snow capped mountains in view, from 750 metres to 1400. We followed the Ziz river valley, first along low plains and then through a Gorge, a wonderful palm filled oasis to our left. It seemed that as soon as we had left the desert the wonderful rock formations we had seen in the Atlas mountains began to reappear.
Finally we reached Midelt, the stopping off point in the journey to Fes. We headed for the first hotel on our list of probable/possible to find that it was fully booked. The second one looked so grubby and run down from the outside that we didn't even go in. So we decided to try one 5 kms outside the town, thinking that as it was not so easy to get to it might not be booked up. It seemed quite a long way before we caught sight of it, up and up an unsurfaced road. As we approached it looked like a modern attempt at a kasbah construction, with walls and turrets. We found an entrance and asked about a room. We were taken on a route through a building, a courtyard, a corridor to a room. It has a window into a corridor but otherwise is dark, and has a musty smell, presumably through lack of ventilation. I personally would not have chosen to stay there, John is much more accepting than me and felt OK about it, so we checked in. We sat outside in a quite nice garden and drank a couple of beers, by which time it was too late to move on, so there we were. My concern was exacerbated when a group of French people who must have booked ahead, arrived, moved their things into rooms and half an hour later moved out again and went on their way. We seemed to be the only people staying there, but a lot of Moroccans seemed to be living there.
Later that evening:
We came in from outside about 6 as it became cold. John checked the GPS and we are at 1600 so that is not surprising. The place is like a rabbit warren, there are doors and corridors everywhere, which different people come in and go out of, and then re-appear from a different direction. We found what looked like a lounge, a large room with couches round the outside and low tables in the middle. There was a large wood burning stove and a flat screen TV in a corner. The windows were all covered in a sparkly green cloth. We sat down at one of the tables and started to play a couple of hands of crib. The man we had seen in reception came and set up the table to eat, so it seems we must have found the dining room. We were half way through our supper when a couple we had seen earlier, sitting in the garden when we arrived, came in and sat at another table and were served with their supper. We were just finishing when a door opened and four of the French group who we thought had packed up and left earlier came in. I am sure that the original group was larger, maybe twice as many people. Those who returned seemed to be expected as they walked straight through as if they knew where they were going. There are lots of noises off, women talking, children crying. Several people have come in and settled down to watch the TV which is showing what I think is a very dramatic and over acted soap, atrociously dubbed. I saw similar ones in Greece, on in the afternoons, which were usually Spanish or Italian. There is a lot of weeping and wringing of hands. They are fixed to the screen, obviously engrossed. It continues to get odder and odder.
Last night a king sized bed in a room big enough to take three. Tonight whatever you call a small double bed, ? Queen size, which there is only just room to get round.
Last night I was hot with just a sheet. Tonight two thick blankets and I'm huddling up to John for warmth, (not much choice in this bed!)
We didn't sleep too badly, despite to odd smell and the dripping tap. We had a meagre breakfast (just coffee, bread and jam) and were on the road by 08.00. The place was so overpriced. We paid 600 dhs for that horrible little room, supper and a scant breakfast. For another 100 dhs, (that's about £4 each) we had the luxurious accommodation at Du Sud, swimmimg pool, and amazing food. Breakfast there was crepes, 2 jams, honey, lovely fresh bread, fresh orange juice, loves, cheese, eggs.
Today:
It was raining when we left Midelt, we had heard the rain in the night. As we climbed out of Midelt towards Azrou, the rain turned to sleet and then snow. We could not believe the snow covering of trees, fields and rocks either side of the car. We passed 3 bad accidents, all involving lorries which had run off the road. As heavy fog closed in driving conditions became very difficult and we were in a slow convoy of vehicles. We think we reached a height of about 2,500 kms, but the thick cloud cover blocked the GPS satellite signals and by the time it locked on we had dropped down to 2,250 kms. There was also quite a strong wind and animals had backed into it, we saw donkeys with snow covered rumps. We had hope to see the Azrou Cedar Forests and the Barbary Apes, but it was just blinding snow streaking past. We passed a snow plough going in the opposite direction so maybe it got even worse.
On arrival in Fez the snow had become rain. It was with some trepidation that we approached Fez, wondering whether we would be able to find the meeting point which had been arranged with Michael's local contact who would show us where we could store the car and how to get to the Riad. Thanks to an excellent arial view from Google Maps, allied to some maps from our Rough Guide, we drove straight there and found Alami waiting for us. We stored the car in a secure underground car park and then we followed him I through a maze of twisting, turning alley ways until we were at the door of the Road.
We stepped in from a dim back alley to a beautiful three storey building. It is exquisite, everything about it is lovely, I think of something out of the Arabian nights, the tiles, the furniture, the lighting, the layout. I can't write any more now, tomorrow I will take some photos and some more description. I am so pleased we Ave come here.
We dodged the rain and went into the Medina and had a nice meal, bought a bottle of wine and came back quite wet. Now we are sitting on opulent sofas, in evocative lighting, I am writing and John is planning tomorrows activities. Already I know that I am going to like Fez, a lot, it might even get up there with the desert.