Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Another day in Marrakesh

It's very hot, we didn't expect it to be as hot as this.  It gets to around 34C in the early afternoon, then the last 2 days it has become steadily hazier and more overcast and then it rains in the evening.  It's 14.45 and we've come back to the riad for a bit of a rest and to get out of the heat for a couple of hours, after a busy but interesting morning.
Most of yesterday was spent in and around the Medina souks. It was OK but once I got over the myriad of lanes, twisting and turning it became much of a muchness.  As I wasn't into buying anything, we have another 28 days of travel ahead of us so there is no way I am accumulating any more baggage, we are back in Marrakesh for at least a whole day at the end of the trip so any shopping I decide to do from here can be done then, just browsing soon let it's appeal.
Today we decided to take a look at 1 or 2 sites of interest.  First we went to the Sadian tombs, not giving much historical information here, anyone who is interested can look it up.  Suffice to say that they date back to 1557 and remained hidden until they were 'discovered' in 1917 by a French arial survey.  They were a good introduction to some stunning architecture, and well worth a visit in their own right.
The next visit was to the El Badi Palace, also built in the 16th century but now an extensive ruin undergoing restoration.  These Sultans certainly knew how to build on a grand scale, it was massive, quite a lot still unexcavated.
The final visit, and the most magnificent was the Bahia Palace, built around the turn of the 20th century.  I didn't think I would ever see anything which would impress me more than Topkapi in Istanbul, now I am not so sure.  I would have to revisit Topkapi to make an assessment.  The tiling at Bahia was not so intriguing and colorful, but the architecture was breath taking.  The carvings and the stucco were so intricate and delicate, but most of all it was the carved and painted ceilings which amazed me.
Our meanderings took us in and out of the old Jewish quarter, a myriad of high sided alley ways,  small 'dukas', often little more than a hole in the wall, selling every essential.  On the way back we stopped at a street stall and bought a bag of freshly fried small fish (quite bony but very tasty) and shrimps, with fried Aubergine and a spicy sauce.
I'll try and put some photos up on this site later and for anyone who is interested maybe the rest will go on Google+ when I get back.

Thoughts on Morocco so far (really it's only Marrakesh). These are to a great extent in comparison to Egypt as the only other North African/Muslim country we have spent time in.
Less edgy and anxious than Egypt.
No where near as many touts or hassle as in Egypt.  Not only are there far less but they are no where near as persistent and aggressive.
Easy going, friendly people, obviously on the lookout for tips and contributions from 'wealthy' tourists.  We might not see ourselves as being wealthy, but in comparison we certainly are, we have the money to take a months holiday there just for starters.
Cleaner, less pollution (by comparison to other large African cities).
I have seen more veiled women during the day and maybe half a dozen with their faces completely covered, but they are in the minority, they seems to be a great deal more freedom here.  I'll be interested to see how it will be when we get away from cosmopolitan Marrakesh.
We leave here tomorrow.  We have decided to head off for the coast first, so we are going to Essaouira, maybe for a couple of nights, before heading south and then east.  If it remains as hot as this we may stay away from the desert roads in favour of the mountains.

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